what to look for when buying a pre-owned rolex submariner
Purchasing a preowned Rolex Submariner can be a wonderful investment. Rolex is perhaps the most iconic brand in the luxury watch world, with a strong history dating all the way back to 1905.
One of the most widely worn and sought after Rolex timepieces is the Rolex Submariner. The Submariner was first released in 1953, as a watch which could be used while scuba diving. Over the years it has been steadily evolved by Rolex, which means there are now a plethora of fantastic options available for collectors and first time Sub owners alike.
Here, we explore in more depth why the Submariner is such a collectable Rolex model, and how you can find the best pre-owned Submariner for you.
Rolex is a brand that needs very little introduction. Founded by Hans Wilsdorf and Alan Davis in 1905, this London-based brand moved to Geneva to become a cornerstone of the Swiss watchmaking scene.
Beloved by both serious collectors and those who simply wish to wear a stylish and high-quality everyday watch, Rolex watches have always been at the forefront of innovation. This is especially true when it comes to underwater adventuring.
The Rolex Submariner was created with divers in mind and was one of the first modern diving watches of the era. While not the first official dive watch (that title belongs to the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms), the Submariner was released soon after. Rolex quickly became the standard for the modern diving watch, and current models are considered the quintessential luxury diver’s watch.
With the Perpetual automatic calibre and Oyster case, the original Submariner was resistant to water up to 100m. This robust and functional design improved and evolved very quickly throughout both the 1950s and 1960s. Early models show the rotating bezel in black, but the hands were not the now iconic Mercedes style, and crown guards that would become familiar did not feature on early models.
The Submariner had many different iterations during this period, and with ref. 5512 in 1959, one of the Submariner’s most popular and well-known appearances was created.
Due to the number of different references available, the Submariner is a highly collectable piece. Its timeless style and excellent performance mean that the Rolex Submariner is often considered to be one of the best watches in the world.
Choosing the right Rolex Submariner
If you are seeking to buy a pre owned luxury watch, then it is essential that you make sure you are making the correct purchase for you. This isn’t an item that should be bought on a whim if you want to avoid certain potential pitfalls. Taking your time to assess your potential purchase can prevent you from buying a watch that isn’t in good condition, or getting the wrong model. You could even end up accidentally buying a counterfeit watch.
Due to the high price point of a preowned Rolex Submariner, these considerations become even more important. Assessing the resale value, how collectable each model is, and being aware of the provenance and authenticity of a Submariner can help you to find your perfect watch without any downsides.
Model
The Rolex Submariner comes in a range of different models, some of which are considered must-haves by collectors. You should take your time to decide which model is the right one for you - and this will vary based on whether you are seeking to add to your collection or begin your Rolex journey. Making the wrong purchase can be expensive, after all.
One of the most popular models is the 16610, which was released in 1989. Made with stainless steel and the Oyster bracelet, this model has sapphire crystal protecting its 40mm dial and luminescent hands. Complete with automatic movement, this watch had a long history until production finished in 2010.
Another excellent rare timepiece is the 6536, an early model which was released from 1955 to 1959, and the resulting 6538 model it became. This Submariner has a slender case and added a crown over time - and became best known as the watch worn by James Bond himself.
A very rare model is the Submariner ref. 116619LB (nicknamed the Smurf), which has a blue bezel and blue dial, and comes in solid white gold. Meanwhile, a more achievable and popular reference is the Submariner 116610LV, also known as a Hulk due to its green dial and bezel, made with robust ceramic and stainless steel.
If you’re looking for a contemporary Submariner, reference 124060 (no date) and 126610LN (date) offer the latest Rolex calibres, 41mm Oyster case, Cerachrom bezel, 300m water resistance and Glidelock extension system.
Condition
The condition of a Rolex Submariner is highly important, but this will also depend on why you are purchasing the watch and what you want from it. An unworn Rolex Submariner should be in as-new condition, whereas a worn watch may have sustained some wear and tear, requiring closer inspection.
For collectors, vintage timepieces are a popular choice. These can date back to the very earliest references, and while the condition is still important, they are unlikely to be worn for everyday functionality.
Whatever condition you want your Rolex Submariner to be in, it is a good idea to check that the watch is in working order (or, if not, whether this is important to the collectibility of the piece). For example, if you plan to wear your watch and use it regularly, it matters that all the parts work well or that damage can be easily remedied.
Check the movement of the watch, and assess whether the crystal is undamaged. You should also check for wear and tear to the case and bracelet so that you can be certain you are paying the right price for your watch - especially if it is pre-owned and worn.
Faults and scratches can reduce the resale value, as can issues such as jewels being missing, or the mechanism being irregular. Your reputable watch dealer should be able to provide you with a detailed description of the condition of the watch, as well as allowing you to closely assess any watch you are looking to purchase if you visit them in person.
Age
Due to the number of references the Rolex Submariner has had during its evolution, looking at the age of a pre-owned watch is a crucial step in choosing your timepiece.
Older watches (over twenty years old) are considered vintage, with those over forty years being especially collectable. Unless you are purchasing a new or nearly-new Submariner of a more modern reference, older models are likely to hold more value. They are also often more expensive than newer models. This is due to the fact that fewer vintage Rolex Submariners are in circulation, increasing their value among collectors.
If your goal is to purchase an investment piece, then an older Rolex Submariner could be a good financial decision. Newer watches are also sought after, and will likely appreciate in value if maintained correctly. However, you should be aware that while usually fairly robust, older watches cannot typically withstand quite as many knocks and bumps as newer versions.
Authenticity
The authenticity of a luxury watch like the Rolex Submariner matters a huge amount. Knowing that the papers and box match the watch in your hand means you will be more likely to walk away with a fair deal and excellent value for money.
Check that your Submariner is genuine before buying by looking for the serial number - this can be found on the side of the watch’s case between the lugs at 6 o’clock, or engraved on the rehaut between the dial and the crystal for models made after 2008.
Even an authentic Rolex Submariner may not have the production date advertised, which can impact the value of the watch. If the serial number isn’t there at all, then the watch is likely not authentic and should not be purchased.
Box & Papers
How your watch is packaged is a large part of ensuring you are walking away with a high-quality, authentic collectable item.
A Rolex Submariner of any age should have been kept in excellent condition, and if it is sold with the original box and paperwork, this can reveal a lot about how it has been looked after.
Having a Rolex Submariner in an original box is not a failsafe way to be certain of its authenticity, but it is a great reassurance. Being able to see the original papers will also make it easier to establish that the preowned watch is truly a Rolex, as well as specific insights into its origin.
A Rolex Submariner that comes in its original box with all the correct original paperwork can also have a big impact on resale value. Collectors are reassured by a watch kept in such good condition, and you may find it easier to resell your Submariner in the future.
Avoiding Fake Rolex Watches
You may be wondering how to tell if a Rolex Submariner is real. After all, buying a fake Rolex can be an especially expensive error. With counterfeit luxury watches being common in the jewellery world, checking certain details can protect you from being defrauded.
A Rolex Submariner should feel heavy when you hold it, due to the high-quality precious metals used, and the typeface should be clear without spelling errors or placement irregularity. Check that the serial number is present and deeply engraved, not just lightly etched.
Another way to spot a fake Rolex is by watching the movement. Counterfeit models won’t have the smooth movement of a true Rolex, and you may notice stuttering or even a louder ticking than usual.Check that the seller offers you a warranty that covers you for faults and damage, as this can also be a good sign of a reputable dealer - and gives you peace of mind going forward.
Buying Your Rolex Submariner From a Reputable Dealer
Buying a Rolex Submariner watch can be a serious investment, and purchasing from a reputable dealer is essential.
A well-known and recognised dealer will be able to provide you with the best quality Rolex timepieces, answer any questions you may have, and advise you on the best watch for you. They will also be easy to contact should you have any issues with your watch, and have a showroom you can visit to view any watches you may be interested in purchasing.
If you are wondering where to buy a Rolex Submariner, then Mark Worthington Jewellers is a reliable choice. With vast experience in selling luxury watches, we only offer genuine pieces that are carefully selected for quality. You will also be covered by a 12-month Mark Worthington Jewellers Mechanical Warranty for added assurance.
Browse the full range today or get in touch to find out more about purchasing a high-quality pre-owned Rolex Submariner with Mark Worthington Jewellers.
