pre-owned
rolex datejust
Buyer's Guide
The Rolex Datejust is unique amongst luxury wristwatches. It has been in continual production for almost eighty years and looks set to continue for many more decades. The classic design has kept pace with the years through a host of stylish variations including the sporty Wimbledon, and the glamorous Diamond and Mother-of-Pearl.
The influence of the Datejust across the Rolex range is unmistakable, inspiring legendary series such as the Submariner and the Daytona. Enthusiasts love the Datejust's practical features, stylish looks and incredible reliability, making it a highly wearable option as well as a popular investment for the future.
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History of the Rolex Datejust
As the Second World War was finally drawing to a close in 1945, Rolex launched the Oyster Perpetual Datejust to celebrate the company's fortieth anniversary. The unique design of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust included the world’s first ever date display positioned at 3 o'clock.
Innovative and classically styled, the watch brought a fresh, new optimism for the immediate future and beyond. Hans Wildporf, the founder of Rolex, presented one of the first models to the wartime Prime Minister, Winston Churchill.
The Datejust combined the waterproof case of the Oyster Perpetual from 1926 with the sophisticated Perpetual calibre movement introduced in 1931. It responded to wrist movement to wind the internal rotor, making the watch effortless to wear and consistently reliable. The Datejust has gradually evolved into a timepiece that combines contemporary innovation with the classic appearance of the past.
The essential features that make the datejust so special largely appeared during the 1950s. The distinctive Cyclops lens that magnifies the date was introduced in 1953. The following year, a bezel known as the Turn-o-Graph was added to provide opportunities for timing all types of tasks. Then in 1957, the range was broadened to include smaller, elegant models for ladies.
In 1977, Rolex addressed the demand for quartz movements by introducing the Oysterquartz Datejust. Although the Oysterquartz stayed in production until 2001, it was only released in limited quantities of up to 25,000 in total. This fact alone makes the now discontinued Oystrequartz an unusual, but high-quality timepiece that appeals to Rolex enthusiasts. Quartz could never displace the traditional mechanical Rolex that continues to adapt while retaining the traditions of the past. Over the years, various size adjustments, stylish colours and high-quality materials, have ensured the Datejust is one of the most popular wristwatches of all time.
Key Features of the Rolex Datejust
The Rolex Datejust is one of the most instantly recognisable luxury watches. The classic design typically includes a streamlined case, discreet bezel and the unique Cyclops date lens. They make the Rolex Datejust perfect for absolutely any occasion, including day time, evening wear and even diving or watersports.
Date Display
In 1945, displaying the day's date on the dial was an historic first in luxury watchmaking. Even more amazing, the date changed automatically at midnight. At first it progressed slowly after twelve, but from 1955 the change became instantaneous.
Cyclops Date Lens
On smaller models, the date could be hard to see, but in 1953, Rolex added the unique Cyclops window. Named after the fierce giant of Homer's Odyssey, it forms a distinctive bubble over the date and provides around 2.5 times magnification. Plexiglass was originally used, but by the 1980s, it was replaced with sapphire crystal that ensures even greater clarity.
Decorative Bezel
Many Datejust models include a decorative bezel around the dial. The bezel can have a fluted or smooth edge that is made of gold. In the modern era, Rolex has used yellow, white or rose gold to create the fluted bezel. This gives the watch an instantly recognisable look that plays beautifully with the light and brings some additional dynamism to the piece. The Lady-Datejust 69178 has a bezel decorated with diamonds.
Oyster Perpetual Waterproof Case
The Datejust embodies the waterproof qualities of the original Oyster Perpetual design that Rolex released in 1926. Once the crown of the datejust is securely tightened, the watch can be safely submerged to 330 feet (100 Metres).
Jubilee or Oyster Bracelet
The 1945 Datejust was equipped with a five-link Jubilee bracelet. The interlocking links across the bracelet's width made it highly flexible and comfortable to wear. An alternative is the Oyster bracelet, introduced ten years earlier, which features three links. Some Datejust models may have leather straps.
Buying a Pre-Owned Rolex Datejust
Pre-owned and vintage Rolex Datejust models are superb watches for every day wear, and are also regularly sought by investors who expect their acquisitions to increase in value over the years. However, with so many counterfeit Rolex watches flooding the market, it pays to be cautious when buying a preowned model.
It's important to only search for Rolex Datejust models at reputable dealers. Like Mark Worthington Jewellers, a good dealer will usually have a land-based showroom where you can view the watch, and telephone number for contact. You should look for a dealer that has verified the serial number of your watch and is able to provide a valuation for insurance purposes and certificate of authenticity.
When new, Rolex Watches are always supplied with a certificate of authenticity. When purchasing pre-owned Rolex, if the original certificate is present it should match the age of the watch, with newer models being issued with a plastic card style certificate. Vintage Rolex may be sold in their original boxes and even include jewellers' receipts and service history, providing valuable details on its age and who owned the watch.
Rolex watches have earned their reputation through high-quality, precision engineering. Dials should be crisply finished with hour markers and engraving being delicately and finely etched. Always check that reference numbers correspond exactly with the specific model. Every single Rolex watch has its own unique serial number which can be verified through official Rolex lists.
All Rolex timepieces made from 2002 onwards, including the Datejust, have a barely visible crown logo laser etched into the crystal sapphire glass at 6 o'clock. It can be seen best with the aid of a magnifying glass. In addition, Rolex usually have sterile backs without engraving and high-quality mechanical movements that can be checked upon opening up the watch.
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Rolex Datejust Size Options
Although the design of the Datejust has been consistent throughout its long life, the size of the watch has frequently changed. Vintage Datejust models were issued in five sizes beginning with petite ladies watches measuring 26 and 28 millimetres. 31, 34 and 36 millimetres formed the men's vintage Datejust collection.
At 26mm, this model represents the smallest Datejust and is an extremely elegant choice for women. This size is not currently in production by Rolex, however it’s possible to pick up great pre-owned examples in a range of options including steel, gold and two-tone.
The 28mm Datejust is currently the smallest model the Rolex produces. Named the Lady Datejust, it’s aimed at the female market and offers a range of beautiful dial and material options including steel, rose gold, yellow gold and white gold.
The 31mm Datejust is the smallest model that isn’t specifically named as a ladies model, nevertheless this is still primarily aimed at and worn by women. It offers classic Datejust proportions in a case size that’s the perfect balance of elegance and sportiness, making it a fantastic choice for those with smaller wrists to wear on any occasion.
Representing perhaps the most versatile size in the Datejust lineup, the 34mm option is suitable for both men and women who enjoy an elegant and classically proportioned watch. While it may seem small as a men’s watch by modern standards, the 34mm Datejust packs a punch with classic looks and superb features.
Considered by many to be the quintessential Datejust, and arguably still the most popular, the 36mm model offers refined proportions with enough presence to suit almost any size of wrist. The size of the first Datejust, and an option that has stood the test of time, it’s hard to argue that a Datejust 36mm will ever go out of style.
For those with larger wrists, or anyone who enjoys a watch with a little more presence, the 41mm Datejust is a great option. Contemporary sizing combines with classically refined design for a model that has proven popular, particularly with male wearers, since it was launched.
Rolex Datejust Colours and Materials
The Rolex Datejust has always been beautifully made in the finest materials including Rolex Oystersteel, a highly polished 904L grade stainless steel. White and yellow gold have been used individually or together for a striking two-tone presentation. The use of lustrous platinum is relatively rare, and not something in the current Rolex lineup, but models such as the 68266 come up on the preowned market from time to time if a platinum datejust is what you’re looking for.
Common dial colours include black, white, blue, green, champagne and silver. Slate grey was used for the dial of the Wimbledon Datejust, which tennis champion Roger Federer wore when he won the famous trophy for the sixth time in 2009. Contemporary dial options also include those with fluted or palm tree inspired motifs for additional texture and interest.
The Lady-Datejust range was launched in 1957 and, along with other smaller Datejust sizes, has featured models that look particularly elegant. Some have unique dials of Mother-of-Pearl, a shimmering layer from inside sea shells that ranges in colour from white to black.
Diamonds are often used to highlight the hours or decorate the bezel. Cases and bracelets are highly attractive in a choice of metals including Everose, an alloy of gold, platinum and copper. 'Friends' actress, Jennifer Aniston, often wears a Datejust 69173 with a two-tone gold bracelet, champagne dial and Roman numerals. Modern ladies Datejust models feature the 2235 calibre movement.
Popular Rolex Datejust References
Since the Datejust's debut in 1945, there have been many variations that have become classic collector's timepieces. Every version includes the quintessential features of the Datejust, but with minor adjustments and innovations that have kept the series new and exciting.
Datejust Reference 4XXX and 5XXX
These reference numbers were assigned to the Datejust models of the 1940s and early 1950s. They typically have a 36-millimetre diameter and a slightly domed 'bubbleback' back plate. These vintage Datejusts feature alternate red and black numbers on the date wheel that became known as ‘roulette dates’ and changed relatively slowly. The hands were coated in luminous radium. The watches were usually equipped with a Jubilee bracelet. As the fifties progressed, a very small number of these vintage models may have included a Cyclops glass cover. The watches usually included a 740 calibre movement.
Datejust References 66XX
The 66xx series began to appear around 1957. By now, the back of the case had flattened and the date dial changed automatically on the stroke of midnight. The Cyclops lens had been introduced to make the date appear larger. During 1957, the Datejust range for ladies was launched.
Datejust References 16XX
The classic Datejust 16xx series was in production from 1959 to 1977. The 1601 was particularly popular and featured a 36-millimetre case. It was often presented in either solid gold or a two-tone combination of gold and stainless steel. The fluted bezel of the 1601 Datejust could be made of 14-carat or 18-carat gold and was usually static. The watch was often fitted with a 1565 or 1575 calibre movement. One of the most famous owners of the 1601 was the American civil rights campaigner, Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. He received the yellow gold 1601 with a champagne dial as a gift during the early 1960s.
Datejust References 160XX
In 1977, the 160XX replaced the 16XX. The technology of the watch had increased and now included a Quick Set date function that enabled the wearer to adjust the date without disturbing the time. The hands were still luminous, but now they were coated in Tritium, instead of radium. The internal mechanism of the 160XX Datejust had also been updated to the advanced 3035 calibre movement. The 160XX series had a ten-year production run lasting from 1977 to 1887.
Datejust References 162XX
In 1988, the 162XX series was released and featured additional upgrades including the high performance 3135 calibre movement. Plexiglass had been phased out and replaced with scratch resistant sapphire crystal that provided a particularly clear view of the dial. Cases such as the 16204 and the 16200 were made from superior, 904L grade stainless steel. The luminous Tritium coating on the hands was replaced by LumiNova that has exceptional resilience to fading and should stay effective throughout the lifetime of the watch.
Datejust References 1162XX
The 1162XX series stayed relatively unchanged from its predecessor, although the case was redesigned to include larger lugs or shoulders. The luminous hands included Super-LumiNova, which is identical to the previous LumiNova, but manufactured in Switzerland instead of Japan. In addition, the bracelet received a major overhaul. It now featured sturdy end links, and an Easylink Clasp, which shortens or increases the bracelet's length by up to 5 millimetres.
Datejust References 1263XX
In 2016, the 1263XX was introduced to replace the previous Datejust II which had been in production for just seven years. The 1263XX has the same 41-millimetre diameter, but the case itself features a much more refined bezel and shoulders. It includes the reliable 3235 calibre movement, Quickset date and Chromalight luminous hands.
Datejust References 1262XX
The mid-range 36 millimetre Datejust has always appealed to collectors in search of a truly classic man's Rolex watch. It matches the size of the original 1945 Datejust and is the most sought after diameter. With such an understated, refined appearance, the 1262XX can also be worn by ladies who prefer following the trend for large watches. The refurbished design features a slimline case with barely noticeable lugs and a smooth, polished bezel.
The 1262XX has the traditional elements of the Rolex Datejust series such as the Cyclops lens, automatic date change and Quickset adjustment. A popular colour combination is stainless steel and white gold with a blue dial, but the watch has many options. The 1262XX is a high performance timepiece powered by the 3235 calibre movement and is usually supplied with a Jubilee bracelet, or an Oyster bracelet with polished centre links flanked by finely brushed outer links.
Find Your Perfect Pre-Owned Rolex Datejust
A pre-owned Rolex Datejust may be a vintage model or a version that's still in production. Whichever you choose, there are a superb range of classic references, colours and materials to select from. The Rolex Datejust is a traditional, but contemporary luxury timepiece that is perfect for today's collectors looking for a worthwhile investment, as well as anyone who simply wants to enjoy a superbly made watch that’s suitable for any occasion.
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