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AAccuracyThe Submariner had many different iterations during this period, and with ref. 5512 in 1959, one of the Submariner’s most popular and well-known appearances was created. Anti-ReflectiveAnti-reflective (also known as AR) is a type of coating that is applied to the surface of a watch crystal to reduce the reflection of light. This helps reduce glare and improves the visibility of the watch face in direct sunlight. Anti-reflective coatings are also important for making sure that the watch is readable in low-light conditions, like in the dark or at night. Automatic WatchA type of mechanical watch that uses the natural motion and swinging of its wearer’s arm to power an internal rotor, which in turn winds the mainspring. This eliminates the need for manual winding or battery replacement. BBalance SpringBalance spring is a type of spring found in traditional timepieces or mechanical watches, used to control the oscillation of the balance wheel. It is an important component of the watch escapement, as it helps to keep the watch accurate. It stores energy as it is wound and then releases it to power the watch movement. Balance WheelThe balance wheel is the most important part of a watch. It is a weighted wheel that oscillates back and forth to regulate the timekeeping of the watch. The balance wheel is connected to the mainspring and works in tandem with the escapement to ensure accuracy and precision in timekeeping. BarrelA barrel is a cylindrical part of a timepiece that houses the mainspring and allows for a longer power reserve. It is usually made of metal and contains a series of cogs and wheels that interact with the mainspring to move the watch hands and provide power to the watch. BezelThe ring that surrounds the face and crystal of a watch. It serves to hold the crystal in place, and can help to protect the face against scratches. The bezel may be stationary or rotatable, depending on the type of watch. For example, the bezel on a diver’s watch can usually be rotated anti-clockwise. Bi-compaxA bi-compax watch is a type of watch that displays two sub-dials on the dial to show two different measurements, usually a chronograph and a date. This type of watch is a useful tool for tracking two different measurements simultaneously. Blued SteelBlued steel is a type of steel alloy that has been treated with heat to give it a dark, blue-black colouring. It is highly resistant to corrosion, making it a popular choice for watches and other jewellery. It is also incredibly durable, making it an ideal material for watches that are meant to last. BoxMost luxury watches will come with a box when they are first purchased. The box can be made from various materials including wood, plastic or cardboard. For pre owned watches, the presence of the original box can add to the value. BraceletA bracelet is usually made from metal, and is the strap that holds the watch to the wrist. Bracelets are available in a wide range of styles including solid links and milanaise, and are made from materials such as stainless steel, gold, titanium or platinum; the bracelet will usually match the material used for the watch case. BridgeA bridge is a metal support structure found on certain watches that connects the movement to the watch case. It is typically made of steel or brass, and is usually engraved with the watchmaker's signature. BuckleA closure device that connects the wristband of a watch to the watch itself, allowing it to be fastened securely around the wrist. It is typically made of metal and has two components, the buckle and the tang. The buckle has two prongs that fit into two holes in the tang. When the two pieces are connected, the prongs are held in place by friction. CCalibreThe specific mechanism that powers the watch and regulates time accuracy. Each calibre consists of a number of small individual parts, which can include a main spring, balance wheel, escapement and other parts, depending on the type of movement and complications that the watch has. CaseA watch case is the housing of the watch components, such as the movement, hands, and dial, which are all contained within the case. The case is also responsible for protecting the watch from dust, dirt, and moisture. It is usually made from metal, such as stainless steel, and may be covered with a variety of materials such as leather, rubber, or plastic. Centre SecondsCentre seconds are a type of watch complication which allows the wearer to keep track of the exact time to the second. This is accomplished by having a second hand that moves independently of the hour and minute hands, counting the seconds of the day. This type of watch complication is often found on high-end or luxury watches, but can also be found on more affordable watches which offer a greater degree of accuracy. CeramicCeramics are a type of material used in watches that is made from non-metallic minerals that have been heated at high temperatures and then cooled. They are strong, lightweight, and resistant to corrosion and scratches, making them a popular choice for luxury watch makers. Ceramic bezels are a popular choice for diver type watches, while some manufacturers such as Audemars Piguet offer models with ceramic used for the case and bracelet. ChronographA type of watch with a built-in stopwatch function. It has additional small dials or subdials that can be used to track elapsed time within a certain time period. The chronograph can be started, stopped, and reset to zero by pressing buttons built into the watch case. The Omega Speedmaster is one of the most popular chronograph models on the market, famous for being used by NASA in manned space flights and being the first watch worn on the moon. ChronometerA type of watch that has been certified to have a very high level of accuracy, accuracy to within seconds per day. Chronometers are typically used in navigation and timekeeping and have to pass a series of tests in order to receive certification. Chronometer certification usually means that a watch will be accurate to within -4/+6 seconds per day, however many are more accurate and fall within -2/+2 seconds per day. ComplicationA complication on a watch is an additional function or feature beyond simply telling the time. Examples of complications include a date display, a chronograph, which allows the user to measure elapsed time, an alarm, which can be set to sound at a certain time, or a perpetual calendar, which automatically displays the correct date throughout the year. COSCCOSC stands for Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, or Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute. It is the highest standard of accuracy and precision for a watch, and is an indication of its quality. COSC certified watches have passed a series of tests based on standards set by the Swiss Chronometry Association. These tests measure accuracy and precision over 15 days in five different positions and at three different temperatures. A watch must meet all 15 criteria to be considered COSC certified. Côtes De GenèveThe Côtes de Genève is a decorative pattern, traditionally found on the bridges of Swiss-made watches. This pattern is created using a series of parallel lines that cross each other and create a wave-like effect. The pattern has become a hallmark of Swiss watchmaking, and is a sign of quality and craftsmanship. CrownA crown on a watch is a small knob located on the side of the watch case. It is used to manually adjust the time, date, and other features of the watch. It can also be used to wind the watch to add power. On some watches the crown can be screwed into the case to aid with water resistance. DDay DateThe day date is a watch term which refers to a feature on certain watches that displays the date and day of the week on the dial. Launched in 1956, the Rolex Day Date was the first wrist watch to include the date and the day shown in full on the dial. Deployant BuckleA deployant buckle is a type of watch strap clasp that uses a folding mechanism to fasten the watch to the wearer's wrist. It is often made of metal and consists of two parts that fold inwards and are secured by a pin or button. The deployant buckle is more secure than a standard buckle, making it an ideal choice for watches that are worn in active or adventurous settings. DialA dial on a watch is the face of the watch that displays the time. It is usually marked with numerals or hour markers, and often includes a seconds hand and other indicators such as a date display. Diver's WatchA diver's watch is a type of wristwatch that is designed specifically for underwater activities. It is usually waterproof, shock resistant, and has a unidirectional rotating bezel. It also usually features a luminous dial so it can be easily read underwater. Diver's watches are designed to be reliable and durable even in the harshest underwater conditions. The Rolex Submariner is perhaps the most famous diver’s watch, and has been evolving since its introduction in the 1950s. Find out more about luxury diver’s watches in our guide. DLCDLC (Diamond like Carbon coating) is a type of coating that is used to protect surfaces from wear and tear. It is a thin, transparent film made of carbon, diamond-like particles that are bonded together and applied to surfaces. The DLC coating is highly durable and resistant to scratches, corrosion, and even UV radiation. Additionally, it is non-toxic and non-flammable, making it a safe and effective protective coating for many different applications. Blued SteelBlued steel is a type of steel alloy that has been treated with heat to give it a dark, blue-black colouring. It is highly resistant to corrosion, making it a popular choice for watches and other jewellery. It is also incredibly durable, making it an ideal material for watches that are meant to last. Dress WatchA dress watch is a type of watch designed for formal occasions. It usually has a more subtle design than other types of watches, and often features a leather or metal band. Dress watches are typically designed to be worn with a suit or dress, and often feature a timeless look that never goes out of style. A good example is the Calatrava by Patek Philippe, which many consider to be the quintessential dress watch. Dual TimeA feature that allows the wearer to track two different time zones simultaneously. This is usually done by having a second time zone indicator, such as a second hour hand or a digital sub-dial, alongside the standard time. Dual ToneA dual tone watch is a timepiece with two distinct colours, usually two types of metal that are used for various parts of the watch. The Rolex Datejust is often seen in two tone format, combining stainless steel with yellow, rose and white gold for the bezel, crown and also featuring a dual tone bracelet. EEscapementA mechanical component on a watch that is used to control the release of energy from the power source (such as a mainspring) and regulate the timekeeping. It works by allowing the gear train to advance a fixed amount with each swing of the balance wheel, and is made up of a wheel and pallet (or lever) system. FField WatchA field watch is a type of watch originally designed to be worn and used in field operations. Field Watches are designed to be durable and robust, and to be dependable for use in the outdoors. They are usually mid-sized to enable them to slip under the cuff, and are also often waterproof and shock-resistant, making them ideal for use in all sorts of conditions. Designs are often inspired by the so called “Dirty Dozen” watches made by twelve manufacturers including Longines, Omega and Jaeger-LeCoultre to criteria set by the British government in WW2. FlybackFlyback is a feature of a mechanical watch in which the second hand can be stopped, reset and restarted at the press of a button. This is useful for timing events, such as races or meetings, and allows the user to quickly reset the time without having to manually wind the watch. In addition, flyback watches often have a chronograph feature, allowing the user to measure elapsed time. FrequencyFrequency in watch terms refers to the number of vibrations of a balance wheel per second. This is an important measure of precision, as it determines the accuracy of timekeeping. The higher the frequency, the more accurate the watch. GGMTGMT stands for Greenwich Mean Time and is a watch feature that allows wearers to view the time in multiple time zones. On a watch with GMT functionality, a second hour hand is added which is set to the time of a different time zone. The second hour hand rotates around the dial once every 24 hours, allowing the wearer to easily keep track of the time in multiple time zones. The Rolex GMT Master is a highly sought after watch in this category, which was first introduced in 1954 and initially designed for Pan Am airline pilots. GuillocheA guilloche is a decorative pattern found on watches, clocks and other objects. It is often composed of interlacing curved lines and circles, which are sometimes symmetrical. This pattern is often used to add an extra layer of security to objects, as it makes it more difficult to copy the design. HHand WoundA hand-wound watch is a timepiece that must be manually wound up by turning a small knob, or crown, located on the side of the watch. This type of watch requires the user to manually wind the watch every day or two to keep it running. Hand-wound watches are generally more accurate than automatic watches, as they are powered by a mainspring that is wound up with each turn of the knob. Helium Escape ValveA helium escape valve is a device used in a watch or other precision timepiece to equalise the pressure between the inside and outside of the watch. This helps protect the watch from damage due to changes in pressure. The valve usually consists of a small hole in the case, which is normally sealed with a spring-loaded valve. When the pressure inside the watch reaches a certain level, the valve opens and allows the helium to escape. Some watches feature concealed valves, whereas others like the Omega Seamaster have helium escape valves that are visible on the side of the case. IIndexA line or marker that indicates the position of the watch hands when the time is set to a specific reference point. For example, on a watch with a traditional analog face, the 12 o'clock position is typically marked with a bolder line than the other hour markers and is referred to as the index. In-houseIn-house in watches is a term used to describe a watch where components, primarily the movement, has been made by the watch manufacturer themselves. This is sometimes a higher quality watch movement than those produced by third-party suppliers due to its superior craftsmanship, knowledge and expertise of the watchmaker. Not many brands make watches fully in-house, with many opting to use proven movements from other quality manufacturers. One of the few exceptions is Rolex, who are considered to offer watches that are made fully in-house as they make their own movements as well as other components, including the metals and alloys used to case their watches. Integrated BraceletIntegrated bracelets are a type of watch band that is connected directly to the watch case. This type of band eliminates the need for traditional watch bands that are often bulky and uncomfortable. Integrated bracelets provide a sleek and modern look and feel, as well as a smoother, more comfortable fit. In addition, they are more secure than traditional bands and are less likely to come undone. Integrated bracelets are popular on some iconic luxury sports watches such as the AP Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus. JJewelsJewels in watches are small, synthetic gems that are used as bearings in watch movements. They help reduce friction in the movement and are used to increase the accuracy and durability of a watch. LLugsLugs in watches are small extensions of the watch case that help hold the band or bracelet against the watch case. They are attached to the watch case with two or four small screws and typically come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Lugs are essential for the functionality of a watch as they provide a secure fit for the watch band and protect the watch case from damage. LumeA lume in watchmaking is an artificial light source used to illuminate a watch dial, usually in the form of a luminescent material such as Super-LumiNova, which glows in the dark. The lume is used to enhance the visibility of the watch and make it easier to read time in low-light conditions. As well as being used in watches, lume can also be used in other items such as clocks and compasses. MMainspringMainspring is a metal coil that powers a mechanical watch. It is tightly wound and stored in the watch’s main barrel, providing the energy needed to rotate the gears and turn the hands. As the mainspring is released, its energy is transferred to the gears, allowing them to turn and display the time. Mechanical WatchA mechanical watch is a timekeeping device that uses mechanical energy rather than a battery to power its movement. It typically features a main spring, escapement, and a balance wheel that work together to move the hands of the watch around the face, with power coming either from the movement of the wearer, as with automatic watches, or from the crown being wound manually. MoonphaseA complication that indicates the phase of the moon. It is typically displayed through an aperture on the dial of the watch. The moonphase complication typically uses an indicator wheel that has a graphic of the moon on it that rotates to show the various phases. For example, a moonphase complication on a watch could show the full moon, half moon, new moon, or any of the waxing or waning phases in between. MovementMovement in watches refers to the mechanism that powers a watch by winding its mainspring. This mainspring powers the watch's gear train, providing energy to the escapement of the watch, which regulates the timekeeping of the watch. This movement also allows the watch to keep accurate time and can be manually or automatically wound. NNATO strapA NATO strap in watches is a watch band made of nylon webbing with a stainless steel buckle which is designed to be both comfortable and secure on the wrist. The band is named after the North Atlantic Treaty Organization (NATO), which was founded in 1949. NATO straps are popular in the watchmaking industry, due to their durability and versatility, and are available in a range of colours and styles. The straps are also popular among vintage watch collectors and those looking for a classic look for their watch. NumeralsNumerals in watches are the numbers or symbols used to represent time on a watch or clock. They are usually found on the dial and sometimes bezel of the watch, and are often used to denote hours, minutes, and, occasionally, seconds. Numerals in watches can be either Arabic, Roman, or a combination of the two. They are an important part of a watch's design, and can add an extra touch of sophistication and elegance to a watch. PPapersPapers for watches are documents produced by a watch manufacturer that contain information about the watch, such as the watch's features, specifications, and instructions for use. They can also provide information about the watch's warranty, maintenance, and repair. Having papers typically helps to increase the value of a pre-owned watch as they help to prove its authenticity and provide information about the watch’s history. Perpetual CalendarA perpetual calendar is a type of watch that automatically keeps track of days, months, and years. This type of watch is programmed to recognize leap years, meaning that it is able to adjust the date accordingly. It also keeps track of the length of months, as well as the number of days in each month. This is an incredibly useful feature, as it allows the wearer to easily keep track of the date without having to manually adjust the calendar. Power ReservePower reserve refers to the amount of time a watch can remain functional without being wound up or activated. Once the power reserve has been depleted, the watch will cease to function until it is rewound or reset. Power Reserve IndicatorPower Reserve is a feature in some watches that allows the wearer to keep track of the remaining power in the watch. This feature is especially useful for those who want to ensure their watch is sufficiently powered for the duration of their activities. The more power the watch has in reserve, the longer it can run uninterrupted. PVDPVD, or Physical Vapour Deposition, is a process used to create protective coatings on watches. It involves the vaporisation of a material in a vacuum chamber, which then deposits a thin layer onto the watch's surface. This coating is extremely durable and can protect the watch from scratches, rust, and other forms of damage. QQuartzQuartz is a type of watch movement that uses an oscillator regulated by a quartz crystal to keep time. Quartz watches are among the most accurate and reliable timepieces available today, and are widely used in both analog and digital watches. Quartz watches are powered by a battery, which sends an electrical current through the quartz crystal to create vibrations that keep the watch ticking. RRegulateurRegulateur is a type of watch or clock display in which the hands are arranged in an unusual or unique way. The most common type of Regulateur display is a triangle or fan-shaped layout, in which the hours, minutes, and seconds are each displayed in a different section of the dial. The hands move independently of one another, allowing for the accurate and easy reading of the time. Regulateur watches and clocks are popular among collectors for their unique and attractive design. Rotating BezelA rotating bezel is a type of watch face that has a ring with markings around the perimeter of the watch dial. This rotating bezel can be turned and used to measure elapsed time or to keep track of a second time zone. It is often used in dive watches and other specialised watches such as GMT models. RotorThe rotor is the central component of the watch mechanism, consisting of an outer wheel that is connected to the mainspring and rotates as the watch is wound. The rotor then spins freely and is responsible for providing power to the watch's functions. The rotor is a key component in the watch and its mechanical operations, as it is necessary for the watch to be able to keep accurate time. Rubber StrapA rubber strap is a type of watch band that is made from a rubber material. It is usually more comfortable to wear than other watch straps, and is also waterproof and resistant to damage from the elements. Its flexibility makes it a great choice for a variety of activities, from sports to everyday wear. SSapphire CrystalSapphire glass is a transparent and scratch-resistant material used to cover the face of a watch. It is made up of a synthetic sapphire crystal, which is cut and polished to a desired shape and size. This material is highly durable and is able to withstand high levels of pressure and temperature. Sapphire glass is typically four to five times harder than regular glass, and is also very resistant to water, dust, and chemicals. As a result, it is the most popular choice for watchmakers when it comes to protecting the watch dial. ServicingThe act of opening the watch and inspecting, cleaning, lubricating, and possibly repairing all of its internal components, as well as replacing any worn out components. This is done to ensure optimal performance and accuracy of the timepiece. For example, a watchmaker may service a mechanical watch by opening the case, inspecting the movement, replacing any worn parts, lubricating the parts, and reassembling the watch. The watchmaker may also perform a time grapher test to check the accuracy of the watch and make any necessary adjustments. Shock AbsorberShock absorbers are components of a watch that absorb the shock from impacts and vibrations, protecting the internal components of the watch from damage. They work by dissipating the energy from impacts and vibrations, providing a cushioning effect that reduces wear and tear on the internal components. Shock absorbers are vital to the longevity of a watch, ensuring that it can last for many years without needing to be replaced. Small SecondsSmall seconds is a term used to describe dials that display a small, separate seconds hand at the 6 o’clock position, separate from the larger minute and hour hands. This type of dial is often found in dress watches or pocket watches and can be used to measure seconds, minutes, and hours with a higher level of accuracy. Split SecondsSplit seconds is a watch term used to describe a feature in which the watch’s second hand moves in two distinct parts. This allows the wearer to time two events that occur simultaneously, such as the start and finish of a race. The use of split seconds allows for a much more accurate reading than a regular watch. StrapA strap on a watch is a piece of material (typically leather, metal, or plastic) that is attached to the watch case and wraps around the wrist or arm to secure the watch in place. It can be adjusted by inserting a tool (such as a spring bar tool) into the strap's holes and pulling or pushing the strap pins to adjust the tension. SubdialA subdial on a watch is a small, separate dial used to display a secondary time-keeping function, such as the date, day of the week, or a chronograph. Subdials are often placed inside the main dial, but can also be located on the outer edge of the watch face. Generally, a subdial will have its own set of hands, but some designs also incorporate other features, such as a rotating disc or a digital display. An example of a watch with a subdial is a Bulova Classic Automatic Watch with a day-date subdial and a 24-hour subdial. The day-date subdial shows the date and day of the week, while the 24-hour sub dial displays the current time in a 24-hour format. Swiss MadeSwiss made is a term used to describe watches that are made in Switzerland, and usually indicates a higher standard of quality. Swiss made watches are known for their precision, durability, and craftsmanship. Swiss made watches are typically more expensive than watches made in other countries, but are well worth the investment if you want superior quality. TTachymeterA tachymeter is a type of watch feature that is used to measure speed. It consists of a scale around the circumference of the watch's face, with markings that correspond to a certain speed based on the time it takes to travel a certain distance. The tachymeter is commonly used to measure a vehicle's speed over a certain distance, or to measure the speed of a passing object. It can also be used to measure the rate of a heartbeat. TelemeterA telemeter on a watch is a type of chronograph that is used to measure the distance of a visible object from the observer. It does this by calculating the time it takes for a sound to travel from the object to the observer. An example of a telemeter on a watch would be a stopwatch that is set to start counting when a loud sound is heard and then stops when the sound is heard again. TourbillonA watch complication that was invented to improve the accuracy of mechanical watches by compensating for the effects of gravity when the watch is in the vertical position. It consists of a rotating cage that holds the balance wheel, balance spring, and escapement and rotates them around the centre of the watch. This rotation helps to average out the positional errors that occur when the watch is in different positions. An example of a tourbillon watch is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tourbillon. VVintageWatches that are at least 20 years old and generally have a unique aesthetic, often including features from the era in which they were produced. These watches may have been produced prior to the modern technology and materials used in modern watches, making them a collector's item. WWater ResistanceWater resistance is a measure of a watch's ability to resist the effects of water and moisture. It is determined by testing the watch in laboratory conditions and assigning it a rating, such as "50 meters" or "100 meters." This rating indicates how deep the watch can be submerged without damage. The higher the rating, the more water resistant the watch is. World TimerA feature found on certain watches that allows the user to easily keep track of the current time in different parts of the world. Usually, this is done by having a rotating bezel or internal disk, which can be set to the local time, and then quickly adjusted to the desired time zone. Patek Philippe World Time 5230R is a perfect example of a luxury watch with a world timer. |
