The Rolex Submariner is an iconic timepiece that has transcended generations, maintaining a loyal following among watch enthusiasts and collectors. Synonymous with prestige and luxury, the Submariner has evolved over time, incorporating cutting-edge materials and innovations to remain a benchmark in the world of horology.
In this article, we delve into the history and evolution of the Rolex Submariner, exploring its humble beginnings, and taking a look at noteworthy milestones and references.
The Rolex Submariner was first introduced in 1953 at the Basel Watch Fair. Developed as a durable and reliable diving watch, the Submariner boasted a water resistance of up to 100 metres (330 feet), thanks to its patented Oyster case and innovative screw-down crown.
The concept of the watch was developed by a senior Rolex employee, René-Paul Jeanneret, who was also a keen recreational diver. The idea was to create a watch that was functional and durable for use while diving, but which was also elegant enough to wear out of the water.
During the development of the Submariner, Rolex worked with famous diver and filmmaker Jacques Cousteau, who helped to test and refine the design, ensuring that it could stand up to the demands of diving professionals.
The first model, reference 6204, featured a 37mm case, a black dial with luminescent hour markers that were designed to be highly legible under water, and a bidirectional rotating bezel for tracking elapsed time while diving.
The watch was powered by the 1530 calibre, which was designed to be shock resistant and accurate. The first Submariner was a huge success, and it soon became one of the most iconic and recognizable watches in the world.
Since it was first released, Rolex has continued to develop and refine the Submariner. Through its evolution, including the introduction of new materials, technology and design refinements, the Submariner has remained instantly recognisable and the quintessential dive watch.
the submariner on the big screen
The Rolex Submariner has had a long history of being featured in movies, but perhaps its most famous appearance was in the 1962 James Bond film, Dr. No. In the movie, Bond (played by Sean Connery) wore the Rolex Submariner 6538, a model that was launched in 1955.
This appearance is credited with helping to popularise the Submariner, and it has since become a symbol of luxury, sophistication, and style.
introduction of the submariner date
In 1969, Rolex introduced the Submariner Date, a new version of the classic Submariner that featured a date window at the 3 o’clock position. This was the first model of the Submariner to include a date feature, and it quickly became a popular choice.
The Submariner Date was powered by the Calibre 15XX movement, which was designed to be shock resistant and accurate. The watch featured a larger case size, allowing for a larger display and a longer power reserve. The date window was fitted with a Cyclops lens, which magnified the date for easier reading.
The Submariner Date also featured a new dial design, with larger hour markers and hands. This allowed the wearer to easily read the time, even in dark underwater conditions. The watch was also waterproof up to a depth of 330 feet, and was designed to be comfortable to wear.
The Submariner Date was a huge success, and it soon became one of the most iconic and recognisable watches in the world. Today, it is still a popular choice for watch collectors and is one of the most sought-after watches on the market.
changes to the submariner's dial
The dial of the Rolex Submariner has undergone numerous changes and refinements since its inception in 1953. Throughout its evolution, the Submariner dial has maintained its core elements: luminescent hour markers and hands for legibility in low-light conditions, and a simple yet functional design.
Early Models (1953-1959)
The first Submariner dials, such as those on the Ref. 6204 and Ref. 6205, featured pencil-shaped hands and minimal text. The dials had gilt printing (gold-coloured text and markers) and featured radium-based luminescent material on the hour markers and hands.
Gilt Dials (1959-1967)
With the introduction of the Ref. 5512, the dial design evolved to include the now-iconic "Mercedes" hour hand and the "Submariner" label. Gilt dials were still in use, featuring gold-coloured text and markers with the "Swiss" label at the bottom of the dial. Radium was used for lume until 1963, when Rolex switched to tritium due to safety concerns.
Matte Dials (1967-1988)
Beginning with the Ref. 5513 and later the Ref. 1680, Rolex transitioned to matte black dials with white printing. The tritium-based lume was applied to the white-painted hour markers, creating a highly legible contrast. The "Swiss" label at the bottom of the dial changed to "Swiss - T<25" to indicate the use of tritium.
Glossy Dials with White Gold Surrounds (1988-2010)
With the introduction of the Ref. 16610, Rolex adopted glossy dials with applied white gold surrounds for the hour markers, further enhancing legibility. The lume continued to be tritium-based until 1998, when Rolex switched to LumiNova, and then to Super-LumiNova in 2000. These changes were reflected in the bottom text, which transitioned from "Swiss - T<25" to "Swiss" and then "Swiss Made."
Maxi Dials (2003-Present)
Starting with the 50th-anniversary "Kermit" Ref. 16610LV, Rolex introduced the Maxi dial, which featured larger hour markers and hands for improved visibility. This dial design was carried over to the "Super Case" Submariner models (Ref. 116610LN and Ref. 114060) and continues to be used in the current 41mm Submariner lineup (Ref. 126610LN, Ref. 126610LV, and Ref. 124060).
an evolution of materials used for the submariner
From its beginnings as a tool watch to today’s luxury options, Rolex has refined the use of materials used in the Submariner range over the years.
Stainless Steel
Stainless steel was used for the first Submariner, and has remained at the heart of the range ever since. This metal offers high levels of durability and corrosion resistance, which makes it a great choice for a sports watch.
Rolex initially used 306L steel for the Submariner, but in 1985 it started using Oystersteel, a type of 904L stainless steel specifically developed by the brand. Oystersteel offers enhanced corrosion resistance, and is also able to take a higher polish than regular 306L steel.
Gold
Rolex started to offer the Submariner in yellow gold in 1969, emphasising its status as a luxury timepiece. Rolex is one of the only watch brands in the world to operate its own foundry, which enables it to make high quality 18 kt gold for its watches.
In 1983 Rolex introduced the first two-tone stainless steel and yellow gold version of the Submariner, known as Rolesor. 2005 saw the debut of the first white gold Submariner, adding another precious metal option to the collection. Like its yellow gold, Rolex also produces its own white gold in house to ensure quality, and often uses it in combination with colours such as blue for dials and bezels within the Submariner range.
Cerachrom
Cerachrom is a special type of ceramic developed by Rolex that has been used for Submariner bezel inserts since 2008. The use of ceramic offers enhanced scratch resistance, and means that the colour used for the bezel will not fade over time, particularly when exposed to sun and seawater.
Rolex first started to use Cerachrom on the bezel for GMT-Master II watches in 2005, but it wasn’t until three years later that these ceramic bezels made their way into the Submariner range, first only available on the yellow or white gold options, before being available on steel versions in 2010.
Prior to the introduction of Cerachrom, Rolex used aluminium for its bezel inserts. Aluminium offers a slightly different look to ceramic, which some collectors prefer as they consider it to have a warmer and more vintage appearance. However, aluminium is a lot more prone to scratching and will usually fade over time.
Sapphire
Like most modern luxury watches, Rolex has been using sapphire for the Submariner’s crystal since 1979 when it was first used on the Submariner date. However, the “no-date” sub didn’t start to use sapphire until later, in 1990.
Sapphire is a popular choice for use in luxury watches as it offers a high level of scratch resistance. The material rates as a 9 on the Mohs scale, which is a system that measures the hardness of materials. In fact, only diamond is harder, which rates as 10 on the scale.
Prior to using sapphire, Rolex used acrylic crystal on the Submariner. Acrylic offers a great warm and vintage look, however is relatively easy to scratch. While some scratches on acrylic can be polished out quite easily, Rolex would usually swap acrylic covers out during servicing.
Green & Blue Submariners
While the quintessential Submariner colour scheme is that of a black dial paired with a black bezel, Rolex has also released various coloured options over the years. Most notably using blue or green in the design of these watches, along with precious metals, coloured variations are often some of the Submariner models most sought after by collectors.
The Bluesy (References 16613 and 126613LB)
The Submariner reference 16613 was the first to feature a blue dial when it was released in 1983, earning it the nickname “Bluesy”. The 16613 “Bluesy” is made from stainless steel and yellow gold, and also sports a blue aluminium bezel. In 2020 Rolex released an updated version of the “Bluesy” (ref. 126613LB) which features a blue ceramic bezel, 41mm case and is available in dual tone steel and yellow gold.
The Kermit (Reference 16610LV)
The Rolex Submariner reference 16610LV, affectionately known as the "Kermit," was introduced in 2003 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Submariner. The most striking feature of the 16610LV is its green aluminium bezel insert, which contrasts with the black dial. This unique colour combination quickly earned it the nickname "Kermit" after the famous green Muppet character.
The Smurf (Reference 116619LB)
Released in 2008, the Submariner reference 116619LB is a luxurious and striking 18k white gold model. The watch features a blue Cerachrom bezel and matching blue sunburst dial, which has led to it being nicknamed the “Smurf” amongst collectors, after the blue cartoon characters. The 116619LB is housed in a 40mm “Super Case” and is powered by the 3135 movement.
The Hulk (Reference 116610LV)
The Rolex Submariner reference 116610LV, commonly referred to as the "Hulk," was introduced in 2010 as a successor to the “Kermit". The "Hulk" sports a green Cerachrom bezel insert, offering excellent scratch resistance and vibrant colour that does not fade with time, as well as a sunburst green dial that matches the green bezel. This unique combination of green dial and bezel has contributed to its nickname, the "Hulk."
The Starbucks (Reference 126610LV)
Released in 2020, the Submariner reference 126610LV pairs a green Cerachrom dial with a black dial, earning it the nickname “Starbucks” after the famous coffee chain’s branding. The “Starbucks” is considered a modern update of the earlier “Kermit”, using modern materials like ceramic, the latest 41mm Submariner case and powered by calibre 3235.
The Cookie Monster (Reference 126619LB)
Another 2020 release, the Submariner reference 126619LB features a blue Cerachrom bezel and black dial, earning it the nickname “Cookie Monster”. The watch is made from 18k white gold and has the latest 41mm Submariner case housing calibre 3235.
Perfecting the Design: A Timeline of The Submariner’s Evolution
1953: Introduction of the first Rolex Submariner (Ref. 6204) at the Basel Watch Fair with a 37mm case, water resistance of 100 metres, and a bidirectional rotating bezel.
1954: Release of the "Big Crown" (Ref. 6200) with a larger 8mm crown and a depth rating of 200 metres.
1955: Introduction of the "James Bond" Submariner (Ref. 6538) featuring a large 8mm crown and no crown guards.
1959: Release of Ref. 5512 with a new calibre 1530, increased water resistance to 200 metres, a larger 40mm case, and the addition of crown guards.
1962: Introduction of the long-running no-date Submariner (Ref. 5513).
1967: Rolex switched the gilt dials that had been used since 1962 to matte printed dials on the Submariner.
1969: The Submariner Date was first introduced using calibre 1575 (reference 1680/8), which was the first yellow gold Submariner. The "Red Submariner" (reference 1680) was also introduced, which has since become highly sought after.
1979: Release of the first sapphire crystal Submariner (Ref. 16800), featuring a water resistance of 300 metres.
1983: Introduction of the two-tone stainless steel and yellow gold Rolesor Submariner (Ref. 16613).
1984: The dials were switched from matte to gloss with white gold markers which became the first two-tone submariner.
1988: Release of Ref. 16610 with the updated calibre 3135 for higher beat rate and greater accuracy.
2003: Introduction of the 50th-anniversary Submariner (Ref. 16610LV) with a green bezel, known as the "Kermit."
2008: Rolex introduces ceramic bezels for the first time on a Submariner with the Submariner Date in white gold (Ref. 116619LB) featuring a blue Cerachrom bezel, followed by the yellow gold Submariner (Ref. 16618LN). The submariner also adopts a new “Super Case" design, evolving the look of the watch.
2010: Ceramic bezels and "Super Case" design make their way to the stainless steel models, with the Submariner Date (Ref. 116610LN) and no-date version (Ref. 114060).
2012: Release of the two-tone stainless steel and yellow gold Rolesor Submariner Date (Ref. 116613LN and 116613LB) with Cerachrom bezels.
2020: Release of the updated Submariner Date (Ref. 126610LN, 126610LV, 126613LN, 126613LB, 126618LN, 126618LB, 126619LB) and no-date Submariner (Ref. 124060) with a new 41mm case, slimmer lugs, and the new generation calibre 3230 (no-date) and calibre 3235 (date) movements.
Rolex submariner Today
Today’s Rolex Submariner is the latest interpretation of the concept first introduced in 1953. While the watch has seen some significant changes over the years, it remains instantly recognisable and one of the most iconic watches in the world.
The latest interpretation features a 41mm case for the first time, yet with a slimmer lug design than the previous generation that offers the perfect balance of elegance and real-world capability that inspired the first Submariner.
The contemporary calibres offered by Rolex are the most advanced to feature in a Submariner, offering 70 hours of power reserve, Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers.
From steel to precious metals, classic black to colourful variations, and featuring a date complication or without, there are plenty of options in the Submariner family to appeal to a range of collectors and watch enthusiasts.
As one of the most popular and sought after watches in the world, it’s highly recommended to work with a reputable dealer to buy your pre-owned Rolex Submariner.
At Mark Worthington Jewellers you can find a wide range of Submariners and other Rolex watches. All watches are security checked and carefully inspected for quality and authenticity by our expert in-house team.
With exceptional levels of service and attention to detail as standard, browse our range online, or get in touch for help in finding a specific model.
