a guide to
pilot's & aviation watches
One of the most easily recognisable of luxury watch designs is the pilot's watch. The classic features of an oversized dial, large winding crown and highly legible numerals evolved during the early days of aviation. Many collectors adore the timeless romance, adventure and heroism associated with some of the best pilot watches. Classic designs from brands like IWC, Breitling and Rolex are as popular today as decades ago.
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Who Invented the First Pilot's Watch?
In December 1903, the Wright Brothers completed the first acknowledged flight in an airborne machine. It took less than six months for the first ever pilot's watch to appear. It was created by Louis Cartier for Alberto Santos-Dumas, a rival aircraft inventor. Known as the Cartier-Santos, the watch was intended as an essential tool for timing experimental flights.
As yet, the difficulties pilots were to face in the air were unknown, hence the less familiar design of a small, square face. However, typical elements such as the large, clear numbers were already in place to help Alberto view them through his often hazy flying goggles. Today's Cartier pilot's watches usually include the sapphire cabochon crown that added such a touch of distinction to the original Cartier-Santos.
The Longines Lindbergh Hour Angle
The American, Charles Lindbergh (1902-1974), instantly became an international hero for daring to make the first ever flight across the Atlantic Ocean in 1927. Without any onboard instruments, he had to rely on traditional skills to navigate the skies. It prompted him to design what would become the classic pilot's watch.
Created for Charles by Longines, the Linbergh Hour Angle featured a large dial with a 47.5 millimetre diameter, and the familiar over-sized winding crown. Most importantly, it featured a rotating bezel with intricate, longitudinal markings. By comparing the hour angle, a comparison between the time and the 360 degree rotation of the earth, Lindbergh's watch could accurately determine a pilot's location.
What Makes a Pilot's Watch?
By 1930, the best pilot's watches began imitating the elements of the Lindbergh Hour Angle. When searching for vintage pilot's watches, these are the classic features every would-be collector should look for:
Large Dial
For many decades, in-flight visibility was extremely limited. A large, clear dial with bold, contrasting numbers provided the solution. The dial size peaked during the Second World War when diameters reached fifty-five millimetres. A fine example is the legendary Big Pilot's Watch, designed by the International Watch Company, IWC Schaffhausen, which appeared in 1940.
Luminous Hands
It was during World War I (1914-1918) that airborne combat units began to use timepieces with luminous hands coated in radium. Pilots needed to time distance and the only way to see the markings clearly over smoke-filled battlefields was to incorporate this fluorescent material. Radioactive radium was soon replaced by less hazardous substitutes.
Triangle Marker
High altitude and aerobatics often caused many pilots to become disorientated. The highly visible triangular marker fixed at twelve o'clock could easily be seen and helped pilots quickly regain their bearings.
Over-Sized Winding Crown
Early aviators in open cockpits had to wear thick gloves to combat freezing temperatures. The large, protruding crown of the pilot's watch was essential for operating the clockwork mechanism without removing the gloves.
Extra-Long Leather Strap
Pilots also had to wear thick, warm flying jackets. They usually wore their watches over their coat sleeves. Consequently, the easy to adjust leather straps had additional length. The IWC Mark XVIII, which evolved from a design favoured by the Royal Air Force for many decades, frequently has a strap with an orange lining.
Rotating Bezel
As Charles Lindbergh proved, a pilot's watch with a bezel displaying navigational markings was an essential tool. It's a feature that's been a consistent part of the pilot's watch design. As a fully operational slide rule, it demonstrates exceptional accuracy.
Dual Time
As extended travel became more frequent, Rolex developed the GMT Master for airline pilots which launched in 1954. Featuring a 24 hour scale on the bezel and a second hour hand, it helped pilots track arrivals and departures by accurately displaying a second time zone so that both ‘home’ and ‘destination’ times could be viewed simultaneously.
What Watches do Pilots Wear?
Omega 'Weems' Watch CK2129
Pilots of different eras have often favoured a particular brand of watch. In 1940, with the decisive Battle of Britain looming, Omega supplied specially designed watches for the Spitfire pilots of the Royal Air Force. The CK2129, also referred to as the Weems Watch, had an unusually small 33 millimetre dial. Inside were sixteen ruby jewels that provided an astonishing daily accuracy of ten seconds. An additional crown placed at 4 o'clock locked for improved accuracy during synchronised flights. An original Omega 1940 Weems pilot's watch is a much-prized target of avid collectors.
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Rolex GMT-Master II
In the 1950s, pilots of Pan American Airlines were making increasing numbers of flights across the States. With six different time zones to contend with, their watches needed to be adapted. Rolex came to the rescue with the introduction of the Rolex GMT-Master II.
It included an additional hand to mark a second time zone. It also had a reversible bezel with dual time accuracy. The design is still popular today and includes adaptations such as the 2007 version with its bezel made of high-quality ceramic.
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Breitling Pilot's Watches
One of the most famous pilot's watches is the Breitling Navitimer. It was designed in the early 1950s and quickly became a favourite amongst pilots. Its trademark feature was the slide rule incorporated into the rotating bezel. It enabled a host of calculations such as air speed, distance, altitude, flight times, and climb and descent rates.
The Breitling Chronomat was originally designed in 1961 specifically for the Frecce Tricolori, the Italian aerobatic display team. It included highly accurate mathematical features. They had a slide rule bezel for calculating flight angles, a tachymeter for speed measurement and a chronograph for accurate timing. The Navitimer was the first Breitling pilot watch to accompany astronauts into outer space in 1962.
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IWC Pilot’s Watches
The Mark IX, issued in 1936, was the first of IWC's enduring pilot's watch collection. It featured an anti-magnetised movement and could operate in extreme temperatures. In the 1990s, the Big Pilot's Watch was reissued with updated features such as a double chronograph. Today's collection of IWC pilot's watches has expanded to include many variations of the original Big Pilot's Watch.
They generally have a more manageable dial measuring 46.2 millimetres and updated interior movements. One such variation is the Black Carbon issued in 2020. It features a black dial and case with contrasting white numbers and hands. The timeless, classic design is perfect for everyday use. Stylish IWC pilot watches also include collections such as the Spitfire with a flyback feature and Top Gun with a perpetual calendar.
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Ladies Pilot's Watches
In the early days of aviation, a surprising number of adventurous female pilots took to the skies. In 1930, Britain's Amy Johnson (1903-1941) made a record-breaking solo flight from England to Australia. In 1932, the American, Amelia Earhart (1897-1937), became the first woman to fly non-stop across the Atlantic Ocean. They both wore Longines pilot's watches during their flights. Today's ladies pilot's watches include the Breitling Lady Cockpit with a white diamond dial and the Breitling Starliner with a dial of pink mother-of-pearl.
How to Use a Pilot's Watch
The simple elegance of pilot's watches make them an ideal choice for any occasion. For pilots, they have a practical use such as accurate navigation. Contemporary pilot's watches often include a chronograph for calculating take off and in-flight times. Some models have temperature gauges and altimeters for measuring altitude. The circular, mathematical slide rule in the bezel is the manual version of computerised calculators. Pilots use it for trigonometry relating to the aeroplane's angle when taking off and landing.
Add A Vintage Or Pre-Owned Pilot’s Watch To Your Collection
At Mark Worthington Jewellers we regularly offer pilot's watches and watches for aviators including vintage pieces as well as contemporary models. You can select from leading brands such as Breitling, Longines, Rolex and IWC who have made a special impact over the decades. Our luxury pilot's watches include highly practical, timeless designs that have been inspired by the daring aviators of the past.We update our stock regularly so if you are looking for a specific model, or would like more information about any of the watches available on our site, contact our professional team who will be happy to assist you.
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