Guide To
Luxury diver's watches

A Brief History of The Dive Watch

During the early twentieth century, wristwatches were frequently compromised by dust and water disrupting the delicate internal mechanism. For adventurers and military personnel, losing track of time could be fatal.

However, Hans Wildorf, who had established Rolex in 1905, finally solved the problem by developing a sealed case. In 1926, the company introduced the aptly named Rolex Oyster, a relatively small watch with a smart rectangular design. It featured an innovative outer shell that kept the watch watertight. To prove its reliability, he commissioned twenty-six-year-old Mercedes Gleitze to wear it as she attempted to swim the English Channel. Mercedes wouldn't successfully complete her ambition until 1927, but The Oyster passed its test with flying colours.

The Marine, a dive watch with a square design created by Omega in 1932, was another take on achieving waterproofness in a wristwatch. The outer case slid neatly over the main watch and featured a small lever that clamped the two sections together to form a waterproof seal. The Marine made history by surviving to a depth of 450 feet (135 metres).

It was around this time that the Italian manufacturer Panerai also developed a solution for waterproof watches, producing the Radiomir for frogmen in 1938. The model was so called because of the luminous material used for the hands and indices that could be seen whilst under water.

Building on its experience with the Marine, Omega’s model became a prototype for watches used by British Royal Navy divers in World War II. These in turn gave Omega the inspiration for one of the most successful Swiss dive watches, the Omega Seamaster. Launched in 1948, the Seamaster is still being manufactured, although collectors often go to great lengths to locate vintage models. The original design featured an O-ring gasket to make a waterproof seal. It ensured the watch could survive to depths of at least 205 feet (62.5 metres).

During the postwar era, scuba diving saw a surge in popularity and it was during this period that what we recognise as diver’s watches today started to become available.

Using R&D experience gained in producing a watch for professional deep sea diving in 1953, Rolex released perhaps the most famous diver’s watch of all time, the Submariner, in 1954. The watch offered a rotating bezel, highly visible hands and stainless steel bracelet; all features that have since become synonymous with diver’s watches.

While Rolex was busy developing the Submariner, another brand, Blancpain, was also working on a model commissioned by the French special forces that was able to withstand pressures of up to fifty fathoms. This resulted in the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, a watch that was also released for sale in 1954 and which was worn by legendary diver Jacques Cousteau in his film ‘The Silent World’ in 1956.

In the years since, the concept of the dive watch has been developed and refined, with a huge range of luxury brands releasing their own interpretations. In 1996, the ISO (International Organisation of Standardization) introduced ISO 6425, a series of tests that watches must pass in order to be considered an ISO certified diver’s watch. The tests include factors such as water and pressure resistance, resistance to salt water corrosion, shock resistance, thermal resistance and visibility. Over the years, these factors have influenced the design of some models, as manufacturers create watches that meet all the necessary standards.

Key Features Of Modern Diver’s Watches

Choose a luxury dive watch and it will typically have a classic, round design, unlike the original models such as the Oyster and the Marine. Its size could be up to 47 millimetres in diameter, making it easier to see details in the low light levels of deep water, however the most popular sizes are usually around 40-44mm. In addition, a dive watch brings a host of special features that make it an indispensable tool when swimming.

Luminous Hand & Indices

Luminous hands and indices glow in the dark to help divers see the time clearly. Today, luxury watch brands such as Rolex use luminous substances such as Chromalight. It provides clear illumination while maintaining excellent health standards. When choosing a vintage dive watch manufactured before 1970, the markers may possibly contain radium, a radioactive element that was first used in 1917.

Rotating Bezel

A key calling card of the genre, the outer rim or bezel rotates, enabling the wearer to pre-set the length of diving time. In an age before computerisation, it was the ultimate tool for keeping track of how long a diver had been in deep water. It's vital not to exceed the limit to avoid decompression problems or potentially run out of oxygen. The rotating bezel first appeared in 1953 in a luxury dive watch made by Blancpain. Known as a unidirectional bezel, it only moves anti-clockwise, helping prevent accidentally altering the setting.

Screw Down Crown

This crown design is one of the most valuable parts of a diver's watch. It forms the waterproofing that protects the interior from water seepage. It needs to be screwed firmly into the case to ensure the internal gaskets seal the gap completely. In many timepieces, an unwound, extended crown alters the date and day of the watch's calendar. A screw down crown, along with a screw in case back, are found on most modern divers and help them to achieve waterproof ratings of 200m, 300m and beyond.

Waterproof Rating

It took until 1996 for an International Standard to be introduced for the water resistance of dive watches. Regulation number ISO 6425 ensures the watch can be immersed in depths of at least 328 feet (100 metres). Watches are also tested for salt water erosion and condensation, which can affect the clarity of the dial and damage the interior. However, gaining certification for waterproofing is carried out voluntarily and is likely to increase the cost of the watch.

Colours

While a black dial and bezel is considered the classic dive watch colourway, dive watches are available in colours ranging from the midnight blue of the Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller to the brown and gold of the Panerai Submersible. Orange, black, green and yellow are also used for dive watch dials making them fashionable as well as functional.

Materials

Swimming in the sea can have a disastrous effect on watch case metals, corroding them faster than in fresh water by as much as five times. That figure might even double if the air conditions are moist and humid. Stainless steel alloys containing additional metals such as molybdenum or titanium are highly effective against saline rusting. It's why so many dive watches including the Rolex Submariner and Omega Seamaster are made from high quality stainless steel. Other metals with an exceptional resistance to saltwater include gold and bronze. Ceramic, a specially hardened clay, is often used for the bezel as it's highly scratch resistant.

Dive Watch Depth Ratings Explained

Water depth is critical to a diver's health and safety. Some watches include a depth gauge that allows water to enter a small channel, often positioned at noon. The water pressure is then highlighted on the surrounding dial indicating the depth of the dive.

Professional dives may be so deep that divers have to live on-site in a submerged decompression chamber. The technical features of a diver's watch are essential in monitoring average diving depths:

• Snorkelling - Between 3 and 13 feet (1 and 4 metres)
  

• Scuba Diving - 30 to 60 feet (9 to 18 metres)
  

• Skin Diving (no diving equipment) - 20 feet (6 metres)
  

• Technical Diving (longer time limits) - 130 feet (39 metres)
  

• Deep Sea Diving - At least 200 feet (60 metres)
  

• Saturation Diving (living in submerged chamber) - 1,000 feet (300 metres)
  

Find Your Perfect Luxury Diver’s Watch

Luxury Swiss diver's watches offer many technical features for the amateur and professional alike. Stylish enough for wearing on any occasion, the unique designs across the genre means there's a dive watch to suit every taste.

If you’re looking to add a dive watch to your collection, check out the range available at Mark Worthington Jewellers, or get in touch with our professional team who can answer any queries you may have, and help you source the dive watch of your dreams.